Traditional sardinian jewelry: history, meanings and secrets of Su Coccu
Su Coccu, the timeless charm of the immortal sardinian jewel
An icon of protection against negative energies and hex, su coccu is one of the most loved and ancient artisan sardinian jewels, so much so that it has become a key part of the varied cultural and folkloric heritage of the island.
Sardinian jewelry is a signature element of the ancient artisan tradition of the Island of Ichnusa, unique in their fine and delicate style, and their particular symbolism, blending both personal and collective meanings, transcending being a mere ornament to become a true icon of cultural, social, and spiritual belonging.
Usually handed down for generations, these small goldsmith masterpieces tellstories of art, religion and superstition, reflecting a vast heritage extending from ancient ages to the present, still keeping alive traditions and manual skills that would have been lost otherwise, such as filigree, an extremely complex technique consisting of intertwining thin gold or silver threads to shape complex and delicate designs, similar to elegant laces, which gives the jewel lots of grace and refinement.
This technique, the basics of many of the most fascinating and well-known artisan jewelry in Sardinia, for examples is used in the creation of the famous Sardinian wedding rings, that symbolize bond and protection, traditionally exchanged as a love pledge between spouses, and then passed down from mother to daughter, as a good omen for a happy marriage and as a seal of the filial bond, which differentiates from maninfide, shaped instead by two hands that clasp in a promise of eternal love (not surprisingly, it was for a long time the genuine sardinian engagement ring).
Also in gold or silver filigree are the so-called “buttons”, sphere-shaped earrings that can be added into a chain or used as an ornament for traditional clothes, whose round shape recalls the female breast, pure symbol of fertility and life, founding values of Sardinian culture, thus highlighting the importance of family and traditions, and therefore often used as a jewel by those who wish to ask for and receive a prosperous, productive and happy life.
Su coccu holds a similar function, a real talisman consisting of a fascinating black and smooth stone, usually obsidian or onyx, placed between two graceful silver cups decorated in filigree that, traditionally, would keep hex away from its bearers. The perfect example of how jewels can go beyond the decorative function, becoming an object rich in symbolic and emotional value, making it extremely loved by locals, but also by those who want to take a “piece” of the Island home and pay homage to its thousands-years-old culture.
Sardinian Su Coccu: history and symbology of one of the greatest pieces in traditional sardinian jewelry
The history of Sardinian Su Coccu, also known as Sa Sabègia or Su Pinnadellu or even Su Pinnazzellu, has its roots in a remote time, and is intrinsically related to the rich and multifaceted local folkloric scene, the result of a land that has always been crossroads for peoples and cultures, a place where ancient meets modern, where sacred and profane blend (evidence of this syncretism is clearly visible in greatly heartfelt festivities, like Sant’Efisio).
A cultural ferment where popular beliefs, especially related to the “evil eye”, in Sardinian sa pigara de ogu (a superstition according to which some people, through the mere use of their gaze, would be able to cast curses or bring bad luck to who they hate or envy), had fertile land to grow and spread, keeping a strong influence both on personal and community experiences of people over the centuries, a phenomenon characterizing other civilizations overlooking the Mediterranean (and beyond) too.
It is no coincidence that similarities with the Sardinian su coccu are evident, both from an aesthetic and functional point of view, with other lucky and protective charms from other geographical and cultural contexts, first of all the famous nazar, also known as the “eye of Allah” or “Evil Eye”. It is a jewel originally widespread in the Middle East, North Africa and in eastern Mediterranean countries such as Turkey and Greece, today widely loved and used throughout the world as a personal jewel, yet as a decoration for houses, for jewelry, and even for everyday objects such as key rings and ornaments, consisting of a blue glass disk (generally in glass paste or ceramic) with a white circle and a black dot in the middle, to recall precisely a stylized shape of a watchful eye, which protects and counters hex.
Same goes for the hand of Fatima, a symbol of freedom and protection in many religions, starting with Muslims, but also ancient cultures like Sumerian and Assyria-Babylonian ones, where it was an icon of love and fertility, as well as in the Hellenic and Buddhist ones, where its parallelism derives primarily from abhaya mudra, the famous position of the hand’s palm raised to represent a total absence of fear. Hand that is usually embellished in the middle with the nazar, which strengthens the hand’s ability to block and repel bad luck.
Despite these obvious similarities, in Sardinia this protection took on a particularly intimate and personal nature, making Su Coccu a symbolic object deeply bound to the sardinian daily and family context. In fact, it seems that its origin is related to the protective talismans used since the Nuragic civilization: the contrast between the black stone and the metal reflected the concept of balance between opposing forces, a key factor in archaic spirituality.
In the Middle Ages, the amulet was integrated into traditional Sardinian jewelry passed down from mother to daughter, perpetuating a tradition that strengthened family bonds, thus it spread as a protective and decorative element in typical costumes, often mounted on silver pins on the veil or on the bodice of clothes, reinforcing that set of codes and customs associated with the concept of a common Sardinian culture that unites the fragmented geographical landscape of the island.
Very often this little charm was hidden in cribs, strollers or under the clothes of newborns and children, to protect them from negative energy, envy and evil influences. If the amulet remained intact until the child grew up, it would then have to be tied to his wrist with a green silk ribbon. The same happened for new brides, who received it as a gift from their family, traditionally combined with red coral (symbol of love) or white agate (symbol of purity), to protect themselves and their relationship. However, in order to be really effective against hex, the necklace had to be “charged” with brebbus, mystical religious prayers of the sardinian tradition that activate its powerful protection against evil.
At the same time, it was not just a form of protection from evil eye: Su Coccu was considered a sort of “shield”, to defend from physical pain, poisonous animals and any form of evil. In fact, it was believed that if the amulet broke, became dull or was lost, it actually had absorbed a powerful curse, saving wearers and making them immune to the consequences of that negativity. A “sacrifice” that further highlights its iconic and spiritual value.
Su Coccu, the sardinian jewel icon of purity and protection
Su Coccu is a seemingly simple jewel, but it hides a deep attention to detail, which makes it a true masterpiece of artisan jewelry. Its classic composition consists of a small black stone, smooth and hard, usually onyx or obsidian, which is perforated to allow the passage of the support that holds the two lateral cups in silver foil or filigree, in which it is set. Each of these elements has a precise meaning.
The stone, specifically, is black because in Sardinian culture this color has always been associated to protection and the ability to absorb negative energy. Onyx and obsidian were considered “magical” stones, able to counter the evil eye and bring balance to those who wore them (not by chance, these stones are widely used in crystal therapy for their qualities of purification and protection). A function amplified by the jewel’s spherical shape, which according to tradition symbolizes the “good” eye, contrasting with the “bad” one.
The silver of the setting has always been related with purity and protection. Its brilliance is seen as a reflection of light, which banishes shadows and amplifies the protective effect of the stone. The result is a small jewel, but still with a great impact, in which each element contributes creating a perfect harmony between aesthetics and symbolic function.
Despite the passage of time, sardinian Su Coccu continues to be one of the most appreciated jewels in Sardinia, for its symbolic value, but also for its essential yet elegant design, which makes it suitable for any occasion. Today, Sardinian artisans still create handmande jewels mainly following traditional techniques, and often adding a touch of modernity to adapt it to contemporary styles.
For example, some versions include colored stones such as agate or coral, very common in Gallura, others feature details in yellow and rose gold instead of the classic silver, and some others are made of a variety of materials, such as wood, marble, amber and colored glass paste, but still always keeping intact the original charm and concept of this jewel.
The best of traditional sardinian jewelry at Forte Village Resort
Over years, Su Coccu has become a true symbol of Sardinia in the world, and many visitors choose to take home an amulet as a souvenir, the evidence of an encounter with a culture rich in meanings, legends and traditions, an incredibly fascinating land, where the turquoise blue of the sea stands out against the emerald green of its unpolluted nature, where small villages rise against rugged reliefs, for a warm and generous welcome for those who wish to immerse themselves in the magnetic charm of this wild land.
Among the places that best embody the uniqueness of ancient Ichnusa there’s certainly the Forte Village Resort, recently awarded as “World’s Leading Resort”, “World’s Leading Sports Academy” and “World’s Leading Sports Resort” at the prestigious World Travel Awards 2024, an excellent tourist facility located near some of the most beautiful beaches in Sardinia, in the enchanting town of Santa Margherita di Pula, about 45 minutes by car from Cagliari.
Here you can immerse yourself in the uncontaminated beauty of Sardinian nature (the resort is surrounded by over 50 hectares of gardens characterized by an incredible natural biodiversity), and enjoy delicious culinary creations at many gourmet starred restaurants hosted within its spaces, including Belvedere by Giuseppe Molaro, Terrazza San Domenico by Massimiliano Mascia and Beachcomber by the three-starred chef Heinz Beck, yet indulge in luxury shopping at the exclusive selection of haute couture boutiques, including Brunello Cucinelli, Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, YSL, Valentino, Zegna, Il Gufo, Givenchy, Damiani, Hublot, and workshops of fine local craftsmanship, offering guests the opportunity to purchase unique and refined pieces.
Among these, traditional sardinian jewels, including iconic Su Coccu, and also wonderful embroideries, splendid ceramics, elegant fabrics, traditional carpets and designer clothes from the most renowned Italian and international brands. In other words, an unmissable opportunity for shopping lovers, and for those who want to experience the most authentic essence of the Island.
Do you want to discover the charm of traditional Sardinian jewelry and experience a dream vacation in a true paradise? Discover Forte Village Resort in Sardinia